A wet day (Gorge Trail 3)

Day number three of my Gorge Trail trip through the black forest began with the murmuring and babbling of the little stream below my window. It already looked pretty cloudy outside, and by the time I had finished breakfast and was ready to go, it started to rain. Still, it was a nice walk, again passing through canyons for some time, and later following a watermill-path.
After walking through the Wutachschlucht (Wutach = name of a river, Schlucht = gorge) yesterday, today I passed through it's little sister, the Haslachschlucht.

I didn't walk the entire third leg of the gorge trail because of the rainy and cold weather, instead, after 13 kilometres I took a bus from the town of Lenzkirch to Schluchsee, a small spa town at the banks of a lake of the same name. After taking some time to look around the shops, I walked to the lakeside and from there took a boat to Aha. After walking another half hour through the rain, I arrived at the farm where I spent the night (a lovely place to be, with the biggest breakfast you can imagine - I will definitely stay there again, next time for longer than just one night (it's only 17€/night if you stay for 3+ days).

Info Day 3
Length: 13 km (+ 2 km to accommodation)
Towns: Lenzkirch, Schluchsee, Aha
Accommodation: Kapellenhof, Schluchsee-Aha (20€)

A broad track leads into the black forest

Translation: "Some believe that the hiker is a sinner, because he doesn't often go to church. But a silent glance towards heaven is better than a false prayer."

The path is getting smaller and wilder.

"Räuberschlössle", the "outlaws' castle" - this used to be a hideout for thieves. Now, only some low stone walls are left.

Higher and higher I go, the stream deep below.

A large wooden bridge I took refuge under from the rain.

This fir tree, the "Stallegger Tanne", is 52 metres high and about 280 years old.

After walking on broad tracks for some time, the paths are becoming more interesting and more exposed. 

The "Rechenfelsen", an ancient rock formation. It's amazing to see the force of water in this way.

Suddenly, a weird sign: "No walking path", next to the actual path (on the right of the tree). I ignored the sign.

The former train station Lenzkirch-Kappel. Now there's a nice bike trail where once rail tracks lay.

Between those rocks used to be an old watermill. From now on I'm following the marked "Mill-path" towards the town of Lenzkirch.

The outskirts of Lenzkirch. After this point, it began to rain again, so not many pictures from the actual town.

For my fellow doctor who fans: ATMOS still exists - in Lenzkirch :)

After taking the bus to Schluchsee : the lake.

From inside the boat.

Despite the rain, quite a few sail boats were out on the water.

My water taxi - I was the only passenger under 70 or so (there was a very large pensioner group from the Netherlands on board).

One last glance back towards the lake - from here it's another mile or so to this night's accommodation.

Day 6 - Land of the thousand lochs

When I wake up, my legs are covered (well, almost) in insect bites. There must be something living in the bed. Well, at least I managed to feed a few hungry creatures.
The guys arrive quite late, but as soon as start walking, we are back in yesterday's fast pace again. We pass a little church, and then walk along the shore of the loch, enjoying the splendid views over the crystal-clear lake.

Using tiny paths leading around some farm buildings, we come to the Frank Bruce Sculpture Trail outside of Kincraig. Frank Bruce, who died in 2009, was an artist and sculptor who used woodcarving as a way to express himself in a way that words did not offer him (he was dyslexic and left school at 13). The sculptures are very impressive and thought-provoking, and it's a pity we don't have the time to look around a bit more.
If you want, have a look at Frank Bruce's very inspiring biography:

“Essentially, the reason for the sculptures was to say that I’m still here. I am here and I’ve got something to say.”

Soon after we arrive at Feshiebridge, where one of the men decides to take a bath in the icy waters. He takes off his clothes, and jumps. I take up position on the old bridge and get some lovely pictures of him hurling himself from the rocks. Enjoy :)

Brave man...

After some trouble finding the right way (some signs and way marks mentioned in the guidebook no longer exist), we continue walking on broad forest tracks. There are several junctions, and as I seem to be the only one with a map/guidebook, I lead the group (fun).

We're having lunch at Drake's Bothy, where I also scale a lovely climbing tree (and notice that I'm a bit out of practice).

Now out of the forest, we walk through an open heather landscape, with birch trees and little muddy mini-lochs scattered all over the place. There are fantastic views over the Cairngorm mountains, the highest of which are still covered in snow.





After passing small Loch Gamhna, the track is plastered with puddles. The men have fun dropping heavy stones into the mud to have brown water splash over everyone and everything - including me :) It's getting even more hilarious when the people at the top of the group start building tree barriers for the rest of the walkers:

Mud-splattered, we arrive at the beautiful Loch an Eilean, where - after taking a wrong turn once again - we finally make it to the visitor centre (lovely ice-cream). From the shore of the loch we have a fantastic view over the loch and its island castle. No wonder this was voted "Britain's best picnic spot".

From the loch, we use some nice paths to get to Aviemore, passing another small Loch and the Rothiemurchus Estate, which offers a variety of activities, both on the water and on land. I wanted to do the Treezone activity there, but I was too late that day.

Soon, we arrive in Aviemore, and after having a quick drink in a pub, it's victory photo time - at the station opposite:

In the evening, the men put away their kilts and step into weird and wonderful costumes. There's a 3-course dinner at the hotel they're staying, and I'm invited along. It seems to be tradition for them to have this costume evening, and there are some really great disguises present. There's Darth Vader (who looks great sitting there texting on his phone - ever seen him do that before?!), a pink hippo (who wins the prize for best costume), a very serious looking Sherlock Holmes, and many, many more.
In the evening, when it's time to leave for the station, Darth Vader, a pirate, a clown and Elvis accompany me there - very much to the amusement of the passengers of an earlier train (before which the station manager actually announced "Elvis, please move away from the platform" via the speakers) and later, my own one.

Now, this has been it - my East Highland Way trip. It was full of surprises (who could have guessed I'd end up walking with twenty men in kilts?!), sunshine, rain and blisters. And it brought me about 600 photos. I might post a few more over the next couple of days, and I also plan to write something of a concluding text, with some tips and ideas for other people wanting to do the walk (i.e. the practicalities). Until then, have a look at the fantastic EHW website...